Leatherworker handling fine leather

The different types of leather

Leather, which was originally used for clothing, is now increasingly available in a wide range of textures. Whether real or synthetic, its use has expanded. He remains loyal to the fashion and leather goods sector (clothing, footwear and accessories) and the utility sector (saddlery, luggage, automotive, etc.). It is also used in the decoration sector, inviting itself into furniture design. Of course, some are better suited to certain needs. What are the different types of leather?

The different types of leather

Genuine leather is of animal origin and comes from several different breeds. This material has the advantage of offering different renderings depending on requirements and processing methods. It also depends on where it comes from, since different animal skins can be used. It’s by working the material that we achieve the desired result. For example, animal skins go through several stages before they reach a marketable texture: tanning, dyeing and finishing.

Fine leathers

Fine leathers are supple and easy to modulate. They are used in fashion and small leather goods (purses). The types of skins used to make this type of leather are :

  • sheepskin,
  • lamb,
  • chamois/deer,
  • and horse and foal.

Very often pleasant to the touch, it insulates the body against the cold (especially sheepskin leathers) and remains stretchy. Nappa, for example, is surface-treated to produce a smooth, supple material, but is still hard-wearing. The surface treatment for Nappa leather consists in removing the hairs to obtain a smooth surface. No other action is taken, and it is not sanded or retouched to preserve the imperfections that make it so unique. Fine materials are also used in furniture upholstery, as they impart a sense of luxury that is difficult to reproduce with other materials. If you want a luxurious, modern look, you should consider upholstering with fine leather.

Soft leathers

Soft leathers are comfortable and therefore used in saddlery, leather goods, fashion and decoration. Among the skin types found in this form, we have the skin of:

  • goat/kid,
  • pork,
  • cow/calf,
  • and deer.

Each brings different characteristics to the leather. They generally have a grained look and will stand up to the elements. This category includes full-grain leather, considered the best-selling leather on the market. Its name derives from the structure of the animal’s dermis, which is the thickest part. It undergoes no major modifications, apart from tanning, and is exposed on the grain side, which is equivalent to the flesh side of the hide. The exceptional quality of these products is reflected in refined leather goods and furnishings such as sofas.

Strong leathers

Solid leathers are made from the animal’s hide, which is then tanned and polished to give it a different appearance. Solid leathers can be used in applications where a more uniform look or feel is required. They are also perfect for handbags, belts and other accessories, as they have a more natural look than other types. This is a highly resistant grade, popular for upholstery and furniture. The skins most commonly used to obtain robust leather are those of cows/oxen or buffalo/beef. This category includes split leather. To the touch, it has a stiff appearance with a rougher feel. The crust is often coated with varnish or polyurethane to approximate the appearance of full grain. It can also be transformed into suede or velvet.

Adapting professional equipment to each type of leather

Leather is a very durable material, but it needs special care. That’s why it needs to be cared for and treated with appropriate solutions, but also worked on with special leather equipment.

For example, depending on the type of leather you want to sew, you won’t choose the same type of needle. The special leather needles are numbered from 70 to 110, corresponding to the diameter of the needle to the hundredth of a millimeter. In other words, its thickness. The stronger the leather, the more important it is to use a thick-bodied needle to pierce the leather. If the needle diameter is not adapted to the thickness of the leather, there’s a good chance that it will break if it’s too thin, or that it will cause a tear in the material if the needle is too thick.

When it comes to leather adhesives, on the other hand, the choice doesn’t really depend on the characteristics of the leather. Although there are several ranges of leather glues on the market, it’s the composition of the second bonding medium that will determine the choice of glue.

Due to different leather treatments (tanning or dyeing), the material may react differently depending on the glue used. Don’t hesitate to test the adhesive on a leather sample to make sure it’s right for your project, or contact our ‘Lineo professionals for more information.