Professional leatherworking is an art that requires a number of steps to be followed in order to produce an article. First of all, there are three categories of leather to choose from, depending on what you want to make.
Fine leathers are supple and easy to modulate, and are generally used in fashion and small leather goods. Soft leathers are used in fashion, decoration, leather goods and saddlery for their comfort. Solid, solid leathers are very hard-wearing, have a more uniform feel and are used for upholstery.
Once this choice has been made, we need to model the different parts of the article.
Leather sizing is the third stage in the manufacture of leather goods. This is an essential phase in all leatherworking. Also known as lining gluing, it is defined as the action of applying a film of adhesive. In other words, before the final stitching, the leather pieces are pre-assembled to form the final object (bag, shoe, belt)
This stage – like all the others – is crucial in the making of your leather goods, as it ensures their longevity over time. With leather shoes, for example, water resistance is essential to maintain the quality of the material.
To achieve effective, long-lasting leather gluing, you first need to choose the right adhesive for the item you want to glue. There are several types of special leather adhesive on the market. Another criterion to take into account is the nature of the second material to which you wish to glue your leather piece.
Remember to adapt the choice of adhesive to the type of material. A distinction is made between :
In the case of a second flexible material, solvent-based or water-based adhesives are preferable. After applying a thin layer, these do not penetrate the surface of the leather, leaving it flexible. Choose neoprene glue for its strong adhesion and resistance to humidity. What’s more, it is commonly used for bonding large surfaces.
For a second hard material, use vinyl glue (commonly known as white glue) for wood, or cyanoacrylate glue for metal, especially for small surfaces. These are reactive adhesives (superglue) which are applied via a chemical process and have a relatively short drying time.
Choose the right type of adhesive for your leather project. You can also use double-sided tape if you have a large area of leather to stick to a material.
Once you’ve chosen your glue, you’ll need to define the accessory you’ll use to apply it. You have two choices:
The spray gun has the distinct advantage of being much faster and more economical, especially for large surfaces. Brushes, on the other hand, with their generally round, pointed shape, can be used for precision work on the lines and surfaces to be glued.
Finally, you’ve reached the last stage of your leather gluing process. For this, use a pressure roller or mallet. These serve to eliminate any air bubbles that may have formed between the two materials and optimize their bonding. Also remember to clean the equipment used to glue the leather with a thinner/cleaner to remove adhesive residues.
Your leather goods are now ready for the next steps.
